Vermouth of the Moment is a series dedicated to discovering interesting Vermouths in the World, bottle by bottle. Follow me as we explore the most important Vermouth houses.
Hailed as the King of Vermouth - Antica Formula means Antique Formula or Ancient Recipe as it claims to be the original recipe of Modern-Day Vermouth.
Two bold claims - let´s see how they go down....
The recipe used to produce Antica Formula lays claim to being the original recipe for
Modern Day Vermouth, concocted all the way back in 1786 - when the Grandfather of Modern Day Vermouth, Antonio Benedetto Carpano created what could be described as the template for the Vermouth that we drink today. Carpano Antica Formula aims (claims?) to be as accurate a reproduction of the original product as possible. As such it is marketed as the pinnacle of Vermouth making, the Genesis of the aperitivo! I remind myself of my Sommelier days with such fancy shmancy wording. Point is, it's supposed to be the real macoya. Let's serve ourselves an exploration into the elixir, and see if it lives up to it's claims.
Carpano's History
Whereas the drink Vermouth has existed in some form or another since as far back as Ancient Greece at least, the birth of its modern-day form is attributed to the city of Turin, in modern-day Italy, when in 1786 one Antonio Benedetto Carpano developed a formula that would be hailed as the original vermouth. His recipe would ultimately become one of the most influential drinks in History.
Antonio was a professional herbalist. Originally he had had the idea to pimp up the local moscatel wine with spices and sugar and all things nice, directed towards his female patrons as an alternative to the local wine options which he felt didn't satisfy them. Little did he know that he was to found a recipe that would be produced, and loved, over 200 years later.
Antonio´s bodega (cellar) was right in front of the Royal Palace, and he had the bold idea to send a crate to the royals across the road. The Duke of Savoy - King Vittorio Amedeo III took an immediate liking to it and it named it an official drink of the Royal House, which naturally lead to a massive adoption of the drink. In fact it grew so popular that the Bodega Carpano would remain open 24 hours a day!
So it was that the concoction of Carpano's would start a booming business and a legacy that kept the company running up until this day. It would spark the revolution of a drink still served and possibly more popular than ever today.
Truly any Vermuthiast is indebted to Don Carpano.
Tasting Notes:
The first thing you will note about Carpano Antica Formula, is that it is possibly the most expensive Vermouth you've ever bought. This might make you hesitant, but if you are, do some quick research about what people have to say about it. Let me just save you the trouble - in a nutshell, or a shotglass, everyone raves about it. ''The Perfect Aperitivo'' they proclaim.
Once you convince yourself you're worth it and dish out the liquid for a bottle, the next thing you will note is the immaculate packaging. It really is presented in the most marvellous fashion, down to the hand-signed bottle authenticating it's quality, right next to the bottle number, indicating it is obviously not mass production.
Well now that I was starting to become suitably convinced, I served myself a glass at room temperature with no ice nor garnish, so as not to influence the flavour.
Well well, if heaven had a naughty side (which we certainly hope it does) this would be the aperitivo that they serve. This is like catnip for a Sommelier, it is as perfect as any Vermouth could be. The balance is divine, the flavour profiles are all striking without boldly becoming the protagonist, they come in waves. It enters thick and sweet; spicy, chocolatey with this burnt orange note that builds into a candied crescendo before all washing away into this deeply satisfying bitter aftertaste. All, I might add, accompanied by a Vanilla touch that guides the process along like the conductor of an orchestra. It might sound like I'm exaggerating but if you really consider yourself a Vermuthiast, I urge you, go out and seek a bottle. Now.
It is, in the most technical of terms- f***ing yummy.
An Extra Drop...
It was in 2001 that the Branca Brothers (of Fernet Branca fame) acquired the Carpano company. As the story goes, Count Niccoló Branca uncovered an ancient document in the company archives, in which was written a formula for vermouth, signed by the original Carpano - Don Antonio. He immediately set to work at reproducing the recipe, and was so pleased with the results that he set out to reproduce this ancient elixir. He decided to use a faithful reproduction of the original label, and also a blown glass reproduction of the original bottle. And since, Antica Formula has laid claim to being: The only antique jewel on the rocks.
This info was covered by the Difford's Guide- which I can highly recommend as the definitive source for any information around Spirits culture.
Luke Watson is a Vermuthiast who believes Tradition & Nature are the two main ingredients that make Vermouth so vermagical. That's why he verm-educates through online experiences and tours out of his home in the Catalan Pyrenees.